Difference Between Retinoids and Retinols

Retinoids and retinols are structural derivatives of vitamin A which are used topically on the skin to treat acne, to improve fine lines, to decrease laxity, and for overall facial rejuvenation. The action of retinoids and retinols is to stimulate cell turnover, hence removing the dead skin cells on the surface, and to stimulate collagen synthesis, leading to improvement in fine lines and laxity and decreasing pore sizes. They improve the overall health of the skin and are outstanding products to prepare the skin for procedures such as chemical peels or laser resurfacing. Skin heals much faster when people use retinoids.

Retinols, once absorbed by the skin, are converted to retinoids such as all-trans retinoic acid or tretinoin (also known as retin-A). The conversion rate varies from person to person, but is generally 5 - 10 %. Retinols can be found in over the counter products whereas retinoids are available by prescription only in the United States.

The only data available on the action of these products is from retinoids. Retinoids provide better and faster results than retinols. Retinoids can cause irritation to the skin, while retinols are not as irritating. For this reason, some people first starting retinoids begin by using them every other day and slowly ramp up to daily use. Retinoids can cause dryness and peeling, so it is important to provide moisture to and hydrate the skin regularly. They also make the skin more sensitive to the sun, so it is important to use sunscreen every day while using retinoids. Retinoids can be degraded by sun, which is why they are applied at night.

Retinoids come in various strengths and formulations. For example, tretinoin comes in 0.025 %, 0.05 %, and 0.1 % strength, where the higher the percentage, the stronger. Also it comes in cream or gel; gels are absorbed more and are stronger than the equivalent strength of cream.

Other retinoids are available as well. Adapalene (Differin) is less irritating than tretinoin, but also less potent. Tazarotene (Tazorac) is stronger than tretinoin, but more irritating. For these reasons, many people start with adapalene and subsequently transition to tretinoin and then tazarotene.

Retinoids should not be used in women who are pregnant, breast-feeding, or trying to become pregnant.