The Truth about Natural Skin Care Product Ingredients

Natural and botanical skin care products have become very popular in recent times because many think that the do not contain synthetic chemicals and provide benefits superior to products produced in a laboratory. Many people are surprised to hear that many of these products undergo a significant amount of chemical processing before they are incorporated into skin care products, which affects their activity. Additionally, there are many things that occur in nature that are dangerous when applied to the skin, for example poison ivy.

 

Many so called laboratory grade products, both prescription strength and over-the-counter strength, are originally discovered  in naturally occurring products. For example, retinoids such as retin-A and retinol are vitamin A derivatives. Hydroquinone, the strongest available brightening agent, is found naturally in coffee, beans, beer, wine, and vegetables; we consume it daily. Other naturally occurring skin care product ingredients include glycolic acid, salicylic acid, vitamin C, vitamin E, ferulic acid, and hyaluronic acid.

 

The most important difference between natural or botanical products and those developed in a laboratory is the consistency of the active ingredient. Laboratories have very sophisticated testing measures to ensure that the product is both pure and free from contaminants and at the exact strength required. There is a high degree of variability of active ingredients when they are derived from plants. This is due to inconsistencies in the plant source (leaf, root, fruit, etc.), growth conditions (soil, water levels, climate, etc.), harvesting conditions including transportation, and preparation method (crushing, boiling, distilling, etc.).

 

Another important difference between plant derived skin care products and those produced in the laboratory is that plant contain many other ingredients in addition to the active ingredient, some of which may not be beneficial. Laboratory grade products are pure and contain no other ingredients except those required for stability or cosmetically pleasing effects.

 

Finally, there is a tremendous amount of data to back products that are produced in the laboratory. This is due to rigorous testing requirements set forth by the FDA. For instance, some of these required tests compare patients who use the product with those that do not. Additionally, the products are tested to make sure they do not cause allergic reactions. It usually takes a few years before a product is approved by the FDA. Botanical products are not subject to these testing requirements and often there is little to no evidence that they actually work.

 

Be sure to understand the difference between "natural" ingredients and laboratory grade ingredients when choosing skin care products. Contact Dr. Alex (818-835-1833 info@aeskin.com) for a free consultation.

Xeomin Now Available at A E Skin

A E Skin is excited to offer a new neuromodulator called Xeomin, an alternative to Botox. Similar to Botox and Dysport, Xeomin will relax muscles on the face to improve wrinkles on areas such as the forehead, between the eyebrows, and around the eyes, to name a few. While Xeomin is the newest such product that has been approved by the FDA, it has been used for several years in Europe under the name Bocouture; and it is made by Merz Aesthetics, the same company that makes Radiesse. Xeomin is similar to Botox and Dysport in that they all last three to four months. Xeomin seems to have a faster onset of action than Botox, meaning that the results are seen faster. Compared to Dysport, Xeomin (and Botox) do not spread as much, which is important because spreading can lead to side effects such as blurred vision and droopy eyelids. The biggest difference between Xeomin and the other neuromodulators is the structure of the protein. Because of this difference, Xeomin has a decreased risk of allergic reactions compared to Botox and Dysport. Another advantage is that Xeomin is stored at room temperature before reconstitution, decreasing the likelihood of degradation. Contact Dr. Alex (818-835-1833 info@aeskin.com) for a free consultation.

The Difference between Botox and Juvederm

Botox and Juvederm are both outstanding products to improve wrinkles for overall facial rejuvenation. But the two work differently and are used for different areas. Botox relaxes muscles that cause wrinkles. These wrinkles are sometimes seen at rest but exaggerated when making facial expressions. Common wrinkles that are treated with Botox include the horizontal lines on the forehead when the eyebrows are raised, the vertical lines between the eyebrows when frowning, and the crow's feet around the eyes when smiling. Juvederm, on the other hand, is a filler which replaces volume that is lost with age. Common areas that are treated with Juvederm are the smile lines from the corner of the nose to the corner of the lips, the lips themselves, and areas under the eyes. These wrinkles are always seen at rest and may or may not be exaggerated by facial expressions. Women who are pregnant or breast feeding should not receive either of these treatments. Talk to a doctor to see what treatment is best for you.

Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation

Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is a term used to describe the dark discoloration that can occur on the skin after a variety of cosmetic (or other) treatments such as laser procedures, chemical peels, and injections. PIH can also occur after other things such as cuts, burns, and sun exposure.

It is important to understand the difference between PIH and scarring, as they are commonly confused. PIH is a pigment change in the skin caused by certain cells called melanocytes. Scarring, on the other hand, is the formation of abnormal collagen in the skin. When touching a scar, you can feel an elevation or depression in the skin or a difference in the texture. This is not the case for PIH, where the skin remains flat and smooth. The reason to differentiate scarring and PIH is because the treatments are different.

PIH tends to occur on those with darker skin, namely those with Fitzpatrick skin types IV - VI. These skin types are common in certain groups such as Africans, African-Americans, Hispanics, Asians, Middle Easterners, and Mediterraneans. For this reason it is recommended that these people start a skin care regimen for several weeks prior to cosmetic treatments to minimize the risk of PIH. Recommended skin care products include brightening creams, exfoliants, antioxidants, and sunscreens. Without pre-treatment the risk for PIH is higher.

Fortunately PIH is temporary and treatable. It will usually go away on its own and the length of time it takes for this varies from person to person but can range anywhere from one week to over one year. Treatment for PIH includes a skin care regimen with brightening creams to lighten the discoloration. These products usually include ingredients such as hydroquinone (the strongest), kojic acid, alpha-arbutin, azeleic acid, and licorice extract. Sunscreen use with SPF at least 30 with UVA and UVB protection is mandatory to prevent the discoloration from becoming worse. Retinoids, antioxidants, and other products may be added for further benefit. Treatments such as photofacials, fractional lasers, and chemical peels may also help. The best way to treat PIH is by preventing it in the first place; this means knowing your Fitzpatrick skin type and getting on a good skin care regimen for several weeks prior to cosmetic treatments.

Difference Between Retinoids and Retinols

Retinoids and retinols are structural derivatives of vitamin A which are used topically on the skin to treat acne, to improve fine lines, to decrease laxity, and for overall facial rejuvenation. The action of retinoids and retinols is to stimulate cell turnover, hence removing the dead skin cells on the surface, and to stimulate collagen synthesis, leading to improvement in fine lines and laxity and decreasing pore sizes. They improve the overall health of the skin and are outstanding products to prepare the skin for procedures such as chemical peels or laser resurfacing. Skin heals much faster when people use retinoids.

Retinols, once absorbed by the skin, are converted to retinoids such as all-trans retinoic acid or tretinoin (also known as retin-A). The conversion rate varies from person to person, but is generally 5 - 10 %. Retinols can be found in over the counter products whereas retinoids are available by prescription only in the United States.

The only data available on the action of these products is from retinoids. Retinoids provide better and faster results than retinols. Retinoids can cause irritation to the skin, while retinols are not as irritating. For this reason, some people first starting retinoids begin by using them every other day and slowly ramp up to daily use. Retinoids can cause dryness and peeling, so it is important to provide moisture to and hydrate the skin regularly. They also make the skin more sensitive to the sun, so it is important to use sunscreen every day while using retinoids. Retinoids can be degraded by sun, which is why they are applied at night.

Retinoids come in various strengths and formulations. For example, tretinoin comes in 0.025 %, 0.05 %, and 0.1 % strength, where the higher the percentage, the stronger. Also it comes in cream or gel; gels are absorbed more and are stronger than the equivalent strength of cream.

Other retinoids are available as well. Adapalene (Differin) is less irritating than tretinoin, but also less potent. Tazarotene (Tazorac) is stronger than tretinoin, but more irritating. For these reasons, many people start with adapalene and subsequently transition to tretinoin and then tazarotene.

Retinoids should not be used in women who are pregnant, breast-feeding, or trying to become pregnant.